Oct 19, 2017

Posted by | Comments Off on Current Specials

Current Specials

Sprinkler De-Activation (residential customers)  $75 Up to 6 zones (Additional zones = $5 each)

Includes shutting off water in basement and draining pet cock valve, blowing out entire system through the backflow valve with a commercial diesel compressor with continuous air flow at the correct air pressure, opening the drain valves in the manifold boxes, and making sure all shut off valves are closed correctly at 45 degree angles. Expires 11-03-17. New customers only

 

Fertilizer Package!  Everything You Need For a Green Lawn Starting at only $180.

Includes 4 applications of fertilizer, scheduled 6 to 8 weeks apart. Includes spring pre-emergent and fall winterization.

Receive 10% discount for prepayment of package.

Expires 6-1-17. New customers only. Some restrictions apply

 

Weekly Mowing Packages!  Starting at only $40

Includes sprinkler activation, aeration, fertilizer, weekly mowing, trimming and edging, and fall sprinkler blowout!

Expires 4-28-17. New customers only. Some restrictions apply.

 

Sprinkler Activation (residential customers)  $65 Up to 6 zones (Additional zones = $5 each)

Includes turning on water, programming clock, running each zone and performing minor adjustments.

Repairs & Major adjustments extra. Expires 6-1-17. New customers only

 

Sprinkler Activation (commercial customers)  $85 Up to 6 zones (Additional zones = $10 each)

Includes turning on water, programming clock, running each zone and performing minor adjustments.

Repairs & Major adjustments extra. Expires 6-1-17. New customers only

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Oct 1, 2017

Posted by | Comments Off on Time to prepare your lawn for winter!

Time to prepare your lawn for winter!

In the next few weeks you should fertilize your turf  for the 4th time this season with winterizer  fertilizer.  If you have brown spots at this time look for rabbit droppings in those areas or have your sprinkler system tested for proper coverage.  Soon it will also be time to have your sprinkler system blown out  (aka, sprinkler winterization or sprinkler deactivation) properly before it drops below 32 degrees.  There are some who believe their system is self draining or some who believe they do not need to have their system blown out…However they do not realize that the pipes in the ground still have water in them and that they will expand & contract every time they freeze and thaw causing the pipes to eventually crack and thus causing expensive repairs overtime or the need for a complete new system.  Feel free to call us if you have any questions or comments regarding this process.

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Mar 22, 2017

Posted by | Comments Off on How Often Do I Fertilize?

How Often Do I Fertilize?

fert

You should fertilize 3 to 4 times per season for most lawns in Colorado depending on moisture, temperature & type of fertilizer.

Nitrogen (N)  is the most important nutrient for promoting good turf color and growth. Do not over stimulate the turf with excess N, especially during the spring and summer.

Over fertilization can contribute to thatch buildup and increased mowing requirements.

Avoid under fertilization of bluegrass and ryegrass.

Turf that does not respond to nitrogen fertilizer may be lacking in other nutrients, such as phosphorus or iron. Balanced or complete fertilizers contain various amounts of phosphorus, potassium, iron and sulfur. They are a good safeguard against a potential nutrient deficiency. If you leave clippings on the lawn, these nutrients are recycled from the clippings. If you remove clippings, this type of fertilizer is appropriate.

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Mar 21, 2017

Posted by | Comments Off on What to do to your Lawn in April & May!

What to do to your Lawn in April & May!

“April & May are the best months to Aerate and a good time to put down a Spring Fertilizer.  If you activate your sprinkler system this time of year you are safe from things freezing in ground, however your backflow preventer could freeze up if temperatures fall below 32 degrees for an extended period of time.  To prevent this from happening and to enjoy the ease of using your system, just wrap the pipes on the side of the house with installation or even use a simple blanket and cover with a plastic bag to keep the cold edge off.  It is also a great time to Power Rake before your turf gets too green…call us to see if you could still benefit from a power rake & or fertilization.  Due to the extreme dry winter we have had, we are finding extreme cases of mites & spiders in turf areas.  If you have patches of brown that are not greening up or brown patches that are getting larger…you could possibly have spider mites eating away at your turf…Call us for an evaluation.”

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Mar 20, 2017

Posted by | Comments Off on Brown patches in Turf!…Spider Mites!

Brown patches in Turf!…Spider Mites!

Brown patches in Turf!…Spider Mites!

We are finding that a lot of people think their brown areas or dead patches are from winter kill due to low moisture…We are finding the dead areas are mostly due to Spider Mites!

What are they & What do they do?…Quick Facts…

  • Many feel spider mites are the most destructive pests for turf in Colorado.
  • Several species of spider mites can damage turf grass in Colorado: clover mite, Banks grass mite and brown wheat mite.
  • Most damage occurs during early to mid-spring.
  • When most people see the damage begin, they often believe they are having watering problems with their sprinkler system.
  • The damage appears as dry areas or brown spots in turf, predominately on the south & west sides of foundations, walls, patios, rock beds, trees, etc.
  • Damage can range from a few dry areas to total destruction of the lawn.
  • Many people who have problems with turf growing… do not know they have spider mites on their property & will continue to over water to try to get these problem areas to grow.  Most blame it on “soil conditions” or “hot sides of the house.”
  • Some who have severe damage or hard to grow areas will replace their sod when a simple plan of mite control along with some TLC will revive a majority of their turf.

Treatment for Spider Mites!

  • Most turf usually requires two mite control applications.  Call us for a free Quote! Applications usually start around $55 and go higher for more severely damaged lawns.

Severe mite & drought damage. Mites can leave severe damage over time if left untreated.

Minor mite damage on hot side of tree.

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Apr 16, 2016

Posted by | Comments Off on Why Aerate? Deep Core Aeration

Why Aerate? Deep Core Aeration

Helps prevent & reduce thatch and soil compaction.

Turf that has less thatch retains more water, oxygen, nutrients & is less prone to disease.

Aerating is more beneficial than power raking.  It helps improve the root zone by relieving soil compaction while controlling thatch accumulation. Soil compaction, in fact, is one factor that contributes to thatch buildup.

Aeration removes plugs of thatch and soil 2 to 3 inches long (the longer, the better) and deposits them on the lawn. Letting the core disintegrate and filter back down into the lawn is the best choice & may take a few days to several weeks depending on moisture and mowing.

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Apr 15, 2016

Posted by | Comments Off on Necrotic Ring Spot (NRS) –

Necrotic Ring Spot (NRS) –

Necrotic ring spot symptoms may initially develop as light green to straw-colored rings or frog eyes in lawn. Photo from CSU Website.

Quick Facts…

  • Necrotic ring spot is caused by a fungus & is a perennial disease of Kentucky bluegrass.  It is considered one of the most common diseases of turf along the front range & the most destructive. Symptoms often develop in late summer.
  • NRS results in irregular circular shapes or Patches sometimes referred to as “frogeye”.  Shapes can range from several inches to several feet in size.  They can be localized or widely scattered throughout the yard.
  • NRS is one of the most widely studied turf diseases however it is the least understood.   NRS may reappear and intensify in mid-summer in successive years and may take several years to control.

Treatment for NRS!

  • Treat with a fungicide. Apply application when fungus is active in spring and in fall.  Apply a second application about 2 – 4 weeks after first one.  A third application may be necessary on severely damaged lawns.  Lightly water the fungicide into the turf (less than ¼ inch) but do not drench the lawn. Fungicide applications only suppress NRS; they do not eradicate the NRS fungus.  Therefore applications over several years may be necessary to manage NRS on severely damaged lawns.
  • Where to get fungicide.  While these products are not restricted use they for the most part are not are not packaged for sale at retail outlets. Therefore, these fungicides are usually applied by professional lawn care operators.  Call us for a free Quote!  Applications usually start around $55 and go higher for more severely damaged lawns.
  • Prepare soil properly before sodding or seeding.
  • Over seed diseased patches with resistant grasses.
  • Do not overwater. Water turf deeper & less often, usually no more than 2 – 3 times a week, without creating water stress.
  • Keep a good turf height. Mow lawn at a height of 2 ½ to 3 inches. Remove no more than 1/3rd of the blade at any one mowing.  Mulching may actually help turf recovery by recycling nitrogen during the leaf decomposition process.
  • Core aerate established lawns at least once a year (spring or fall) to help reduce thatch buildup and improve soil drainage. Core aeration equipment may spread the NRS fungus although this is not likely a major means of pathogen movement. Furthermore, the benefits of aeration outweigh potential problems.
  • Avoid applying excessive amounts of nitrogen fertilizer.Applications of more than 4 lb total nitrogen per 1000 square feet per year may enhance NRS. Timing of fertilizer applications is as important as the total amount applied.

 

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