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Mar 22, 2019

Posted by | Comments Off on Necrotic Ring Spot (NRS) –

Necrotic Ring Spot (NRS) –

Lawn Care

Necrotic ring spot symptoms may initially develop as light green to straw-colored rings or frog eyes in lawn. Photo from CSU Website.

Quick Facts…

  • Necrotic ring spot is caused by a fungus & is a perennial disease of Kentucky bluegrass.  It is considered one of the most common diseases of turf along the front range & the most destructive. Symptoms often develop in late summer.
  • NRS results in irregular circular shapes or Patches sometimes referred to as “frogeye”.  Shapes can range from several inches to several feet in size.  They can be localized or widely scattered throughout the yard.
  • NRS is one of the most widely studied turf diseases however it is the least understood.   NRS may reappear and intensify in mid-summer in successive years and may take several years to control.

Treatment for NRS!

  • Treat with a fungicide. Apply application when fungus is active in spring and in fall.  Apply a second application about 2 – 4 weeks after first one.  A third application may be necessary on severely damaged lawns.  Lightly water the fungicide into the turf (less than ¼ inch) but do not drench the lawn. Fungicide applications only suppress NRS; they do not eradicate the NRS fungus.  Therefore applications over several years may be necessary to manage NRS on severely damaged lawns.
  • Where to get fungicide.  While these products are not restricted use they for the most part are not are not packaged for sale at retail outlets. Therefore, these fungicides are usually applied by professional lawn care operators.  Call us for a free Quote!  Applications usually start around $55 and go higher for more severely damaged lawns.
  • Prepare soil properly before sodding or seeding.
  • Over seed diseased patches with resistant grasses.
  • Do not overwater. Water turf deeper & less often, usually no more than 2 – 3 times a week, without creating water stress.
  • Keep a good turf height. Mow lawn at a height of 2 ½ to 3 inches. Remove no more than 1/3rd of the blade at any one mowing.  Mulching may actually help turf recovery by recycling nitrogen during the leaf decomposition process.
  • Core aerate established lawns at least once a year (spring or fall) to help reduce thatch buildup and improve soil drainage. Core aeration equipment may spread the NRS fungus although this is not likely a major means of pathogen movement. Furthermore, the benefits of aeration outweigh potential problems.
  • Avoid applying excessive amounts of nitrogen fertilizer.Applications of more than 4 lb total nitrogen per 1000 square feet per year may enhance NRS. Timing of fertilizer applications is as important as the total amount applied.


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Mar 19, 2019

Posted by | Comments Off on Bugs to look for in Late April

Bugs to look for in Late April

Bugs to look for in Late April

Household Insects

Late April

Household Insects

Ants:  Foraging ants in homes are common until temperatures allow them to seek food outdoors.

Tree/Shrub Insects

Cooley spruce gall:  Insects continue development and usually begin to produce egg sack in late April.

Lilac/ash borer: Flights of adult moths may begin.

Poplar twiggall fly: Adults emerge and begin to lay eggs in emerging aspen shoots.

Spider mites on pines:  Populations may increase rapidly on ponderosa and other susceptible pines

Spiny elm caterpillar:  Small colonies of these caterpillars may be seen on willow, hackberry, aspen, elm and other trees.

Douglas-fir beetle:  In forested areas, adult emergence, flights and tree attacks may begin.

Brownheaded ash sawfly:  Adults may lay eggs during warm days following bud break.

Zimmerman pine moth:  Approximate treatment timing for overwintered larvae. 


Turfgrass mites:  Clover mites continue to feed on lawns and enter homes in nuisance migrations.

Nightcrawlers: Tunneling activities and associated lawn lumps continue.

Midges: Non-biting midges emerge from ponds and mating swarms may be observed over lawns.


Spinach leafminer: Egg laying and tunneling begins in older spinach foliage.

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Feb 5, 2019

Posted by | Comments Off on Winter Watering

Winter Watering

Watering of trees, shrubs, lawns, and perennials during prolonged dry fall and winter periods prevents root damage that affects the health of the entire plant. Colorado’s’ dry air, low precipitation, little soil moisture, and fluctuating temperatures and just the characteristics of fall and winter can be hard on trees and shrubs and requires winter tree watering. There often can be little or no snow cover to provide soil moisture, particularly from October through March.

Trees, shrubs, perennials and lawns can be damaged if they do not receive supplemental water. The result of long, dry periods during fall and winter is injury or death to parts of plant root systems. Affected plants may appear perfectly normal and resume growth in the spring using stored food energy. Plants may be weakened and all or parts may die in late spring or summer when temperatures rise. Weakened plants also may be subject to insect and disease problems.

Newly established lawns, whether seed or sod, are especially susceptible to damage. Susceptibility increases for lawns with south or west exposures. Contact JVJ Lawn Care & Sprinkler Co., at 303-805-3927 today for a free estimate and landscape evaluation.

Tree, Shrub & Lawn Watering Basics

  • Winter watering should be done from October through March.
  • Water only when air temperatures are above 40 degrees F.
  • Apply water at mid-day so it will have time to soak in before possible freezing at night.
  • Monitor weather conditions and water during extended dry periods without snow cover—one to three times per month.
  • Trees obtain water best when it is allowed to soak into the soil slowly to a depth of 12 inches.
  • Methods of watering trees include: sprinklers, deep-root fork or needle, soaker hose or soft spray wand.
  • Apply water to many locations under the dripline and beyond if possible.
  • If you use a deep-root fork or needle, insert no deeper than 8 inches into the soil.
  • As a general survival rule, apply 10-20 gallons of water for each diameter inch of the tree.
  • Newly planted shrubs require more water than established shrubs that have been planted for at least one year.
  • Apply 5 gallons two times per month for a newly planted shrub.
  • Small established shrubs (less than 3 feet tall) should receive 5 gallons monthly.
  • Large established shrubs (more than 6 feet) require 18 gallons on a monthly basis.
  • Decrease amounts to account for precipitation.

Read more published information from Colorado State University at the link below.

Winter watering …Note: this link will take you away from our website… see you soon!

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Sep 19, 2018

Posted by | Comments Off on Time to prepare your lawn for winter!

Time to prepare your lawn for winter!

In the next few weeks you should fertilize your turf  for the 4th time this season with winterizer  fertilizer.  If you have brown spots at this time look for rabbit droppings in those areas or have your sprinkler system tested for proper coverage.  Soon it will also be time to have your sprinkler system blown out  (aka, sprinkler winterization or sprinkler deactivation) properly before it drops below 32 degrees.  There are some who believe their system is self draining or some who believe they do not need to have their system blown out…However they do not realize that the pipes in the ground still have water in them and that they will expand & contract every time they freeze and thaw causing the pipes to eventually crack and thus causing expensive repairs overtime or the need for a complete new system.  Feel free to call us if you have any questions or comments regarding this process.

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Aug 23, 2018

Posted by | Comments Off on Pest & Disease Control

Pest & Disease Control

Spider Mites

Necrotic Ring Spot (NRS)


Fairy Ring

Grub Worm

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Feb 16, 2015

Posted by | Comments Off on Ascochyta




Quick Facts…

  • Ascochyta is a fungus that is usually just an aesthetic problem on Kentucky bluegrass lawns in Colorado.  It may also occur on tall fescue and perennial ryegrass.
  • Leaves usually start dying back from the tips & severe areas of affected turf will turn straw-colored however your turf is not dead.
  • Ascochyta can occur throughout the growing season, but is more prevalent in the spring when there are extended wet periods symptoms may develop throughout the growing season but are more common when cool rainy conditions are followed immediately by hot dry conditions. The overall appearance of the disease may resemble drought stress, except that the symptoms of Asochyta blight appear quickly (i.e. sometimes overnight).
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Treatment for Ascochyta!

  • Reduce thatch and promote water penetration through the soil by aerating.
  • Sharpen blades & maintain grass height between 2 ½ and 3 inches. Avoid mowing during wet weather.
  • Although the fungus can be spread from one location to another on grass clippings it is unlikely to contribute significantly to disease development because the fungus is already present throughout every lawn.
  • Maintain a balanced fertilizationprogram.
  • Try to maintain uniform soil moisture. Check your sprinkler system to make sure all sprinkler heads are working properly and that water is being distributed uniformly to avoid drought stress. On the other hand excessive irrigation and poorly drained soils may also promote disease development.
  • The damage usually takes several weeks to disappear.
  • If you can’t wait, a fungicide can speed up the healing process especially on more severely damaged lawns…Call us for a free evaluation!

Bleached leaf

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Bleached leaf tips and banding are characteristic of Ascochyta leaf blight.

Ascochyta leaf blight

Ascochyta leaf blight on Kentucky Bluegrass

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